41 Pago Pago - Kiritimati
29. March 2007
The first familiar feature as you drive from the airport in American Samoa is McDonalds and KFC.
The parking paces are wider and the cars are somewhat larger and newer than on Tonga. The US influence is apparent.
On arrival, I rented a car, and in the afternoon I drove to the town Pago Pago itself. Beautiful located in a bay, but the main feature here is a huge tuna fish factory.
The next day I drove around the west coast for as long as the road went, passing very beautiful scenery on the way.
I had contacted the aviation authorities in Kiribati about permission to land in Kitimati or Christmas Island, as it is also called (Captain Cook discovered the Island on Christmas eve in 1776). I had a mail back asking for further information. One question was, as to why I wanted to stay for 3 nights in Christmas Island - and not just 2?
I wrote back, that 2 nights would be ok too, and asked for permission to arrive the next day 27th March. But I was told to stay where I was, until the issue of the 3 night stay was resolved.
So the next morning I planned to fly to the island of Ofu, about half an hours flying from the main island, Tutuila. There is supposed to be an exquisite beach right by the runway. But the weather was not for a VFR flight this morning, very low clouds and rain. I waited in the airport for several hours, but the weather only getting worse. I used the waiting time to get the fuel on the plane.
I also visited the NOAA weather station next to the airport, and got a briefing on the weather on the route to Christmas Island. The forecast was that the weather around Pago Pago was going to get worse the next days, but that I would get clear of it, by flying north.
So I got pretty determined about getting going the next day, even though I had not been given a permit yet. I had tried to call the tower in Christmas Island, and also the fuel company, but was unable to get in contact.
I filed a flight plan in the evening, using the internet and the Danish service Naviar.
In the morning it was IMC conditions. I called Faleolo control on Samoa (used to be called West Samoa) for a clearance, and took off. I had to pass some really heavy rain clouds (with a lot of turbulence) just out from Pago Pago but after that, the conditions got better.
I got talking to Fiji radio and - after some hours - I talked to San Francisco Radio. I had again tried to ring the tower in Kiritimati. I had expected to have the permit in the morning before I left – but it was not in my mail box? So now I was very anxious to talk to Kiritimati – also because I realised, that with the head wind I was having – I would arrive after dark. So it would be nice to know, that somebody was there to turn the runway lights on!
I would have to know this before it was too late to turn around, as there is no alternative airport anywhere near Christmas Island!
From San Francisco Radio I got the telephone number for Bonriki Airport, some 1800 NM from Christmas Island. They contacted the tower in Kiritimati by HF radio, and after about an hour they rang me up on the satellite phone, and told me that everything was fine – they were expecting me in Christmas Island. That was a very nice message to get!
I was talking to San Francisco on the HF frequency 13261, and about 300NM from Christmas Island I picked up a call from the island. It was confirmed, that they were expecting me. 75 NM out I had contact by VFR radio, and after 10 and a half hour of flying time, I landed on runway 08 to a very friendly reception by everybody.
I had realised, while in Samoa, that I actually was supposed to have a visa – and a landing permit – but there were no problems on arrival. Only smiles. After customs and emigration was done, the radio man took me to the Captain Cook Hotel.
